Wild, wilder, wildest 

After all the dust from the salt pans we visited the Goo Moremi gorge. Like always in Africa, you can only visit this gorge with a guide. But after a very hot 3.5 km walk from the campsite there was no guide to be seen at the gorge entrance. So we went in, tired of waiting for who knows how long. Half way we stumbled upon the guide with another group on their way back. ‘You are not suppose to walk here on your own!’ We played the foolish card. ‘Really? Is this already the gorge area?’ He was not really buying it and gave us a lecture concluding with ‘This place is sacred so if you upset the ancestors you might disappear’. Well, we are giving it a go, bye! We continued our walk, without the guide and the ancestors clearly approved because we made it back in one piece.

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The Khama Rhino Sanctuary was our next stop. After 5 months and 5 days we wanted to complete the big 5, adding the rhino to our sightings list. This park did not disappoint! We came here for the rhinos obviously but we got so much more! Rhino, giraffe, wildebeest, zebra, oryx, springbok, impala, hartebeest, ostrich, vulgars – all at the same time! And last but not least, another leopard! Just a minute away from our campsite we saw a female leopard, clearly pregnant. Wow! We did not even know that there were predators in this park! It was time to make a fire…

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From Khama we drove to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, the dry heart of the dry south of a dry continent. We were looking forward to experience this epic part of Africa. Although the game drive was a bit disappointing, sleeping under the stars being surrounded by nothing else than an oh-ho from an owl and a far roar in the distance is just amazing.

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Our wild nights continued in the Khwai region, part of the Okavango Delta. Driving from the Kalahari to Khwai we were moving into elephant territory again. On the last stretch, 125 km off road, there were groups of elephant crossing the road every fifteen minutes. Arriving at the campsite was already a challenge because the road was blocked by a big group. Once we could made our way to the site, we were ready to wash off the dirt and an elephant wanted to join the party. She was making a move for the ablution block and we jumped into the shower. Immediately regretting this because now we were locked into a not so sturdy, definitely not elephant proof, wooden square meter. We peaked through the door but she was still there watching us just a meter away. We waited, not making a sound and slowly she moved away. When we released ourselves we saw that she was reunited with her baby elephant, on the other side of the ablution block…

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